A couple pics from the lake today..

[Jake]

They didnt come out exactly like i had planned.. it was my first time shooting with this camera in the sun, and i was messing with the shutter speeds and aperture settings all day..

1.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j145/v0lcompicz/503-009.jpg
2.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j145/v0lcompicz/503-005.jpg
3.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j145/v0lcompicz/503-042-2.jpg
4.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j145/v0lcompicz/503-054-2.jpg
5.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j145/v0lcompicz/503-056-2.jpg
6.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j145/v0lcompicz/503-045-2.jpg


COMMENTS/CRITIQUE are greatly accepted.

[Mars_302]

The one thing that sticks out first in the last few water pics is the blur, its either the camera was focusing on the wrong thing or the shutter speed wasnt upto par

[Regina]

Yeah I think it was focusing more on the background rather than the subjects. I love number 3.

[Kristin]

Oh man, I want on those tubes!!! :grin:

[D-Roll]

Tubing is awesome! great pics bro

[Rich]

Are you using spot-focus?

[AmandaR]

great pics and it looks like you boys had alot of fun!

[Jake]

Are you using spot-focus?

I dont know what that is..

[jdk]

Good action shots.


I think he means spot metering - and from looking at the EXIF info it looks like you were using pattern metering. I don't think the camera he has even has spot metering.

On a technical note, some of those shots are underexposed. Since you were in shutter priority mode it looks like the camera just plain metered them wrong, which is exactly why I don't use any mode other than manual, because no matter what the camera is never going to get the exposure for the entire frame spot on without help from the photographer. If you had of gone from shutter priority to manual and left the shutter speed and aperture the same but bumped the ISO to 400, they would probably be perfect.


That is not to say anything is wrong with the photos however, probably only 1% of the world will ever give a crap if your photos are underexposed.

[Jake]

Good action shots.


I think he means spot metering - and from looking at the EXIF info it looks like you were using pattern metering. I don't think the camera he has even has spot metering.

On a technical note, some of those shots are underexposed. Since you were in shutter priority mode it looks like the camera just plain metered them wrong, which is exactly why I don't use any mode other than manual, because no matter what the camera is never going to get the exposure for the entire frame spot on without help from the photographer. If you had of gone from shutter priority to manual and left the shutter speed and aperture the same but bumped the ISO to 400, they would probably be perfect.


That is not to say anything is wrong with the photos however, probably only 1% of the world will ever give a crap if your photos are underexposed.

Awesome man, these are the posts that i want to see. Like i said, it was my first time shooting in the sun, and my first actual attempt of messing with the cameras settings. Its also my first SLR so im still learning what each of the modes do too.Since it was sunny out, i figured ide use ISO 100 for most of the time. I have a 350d, i dunno if you are familiar with it.. I looked through the manual, and i have evaluative metering, partial metering, and center-weighted average metering.

[jdk]

Awesome man, these are the posts that i want to see. Like i said, it was my first time shooting in the sun, and my first actual attempt of messing with the cameras settings. Its also my first SLR so im still learning what each of the modes do too.Since it was sunny out, i figured ide use ISO 100 for most of the time. I have a 350d, i dunno if you are familiar with it.. I looked through the manual, and i have evaluative metering, partial metering, and center-weighted average metering.

The problem with trusting metering modes, either 3 of them, especially the smaller area ones like partial and center-weighted is that any hotspot in the frame can throw the camera off and it will seriously under-expose the entire frame. For instance if you use center-weighted metering and then focus on the white lettering on those tubes it's going to try to render an exposure that would make that white 18% grey, so you can imagine what the rest of the stuff in that frame that wasnt white to start with is going to look like (hint, really dark).

For shots like this I'm sure it's hard because you're constantly changing direction, but the best thing really is to get good with using manual mode and changing aperture and shutter speed to suit. You still look at what the meter on the camera says, you just have to adjust sometimes when there is a lot of range in the photos.


ISO 100 is normally fine yes, but you used a pretty high shutter speed, so you have to either use a lower aperture or bump the ISO up to compensate. If you look at photos 3 and 4, you can see #3 is just a little under exposed, but the action is still well captured and it's not blurry, so that is a pretty good indicator that you have a good shutter speed.. But then you went even faster in #4, and you can see it is much more under exposed than #3. Canon cameras maintain excellent image quality even at higher ISOs, so don't be afraid to use it to your advantage when taking action shots. Of course you should use the lowest ISO possible for best image quality, but when you're doing hand held action shots having good exposure, depth of field, and using the right shutter speed is more important , IMO of course.

[Jake]

The problem with trusting metering modes, either 3 of them, especially the smaller area ones like partial and center-weighted is that any hotspot in the frame can throw the camera off and it will seriously under-expose the entire frame. For instance if you use center-weighted metering and then focus on the white lettering on those tubes it's going to try to render an exposure that would make that white 18% grey, so you can imagine what the rest of the stuff in that frame that wasnt white to start with is going to look like (hint, really dark).

For shots like this I'm sure it's hard because you're constantly changing direction, but the best thing really is to get good with using manual mode and changing aperture and shutter speed to suit. You still look at what the meter on the camera says, you just have to adjust sometimes when there is a lot of range in the photos.


ISO 100 is normally fine yes, but you used a pretty high shutter speed, so you have to either use a lower aperture or bump the ISO up to compensate. If you look at photos 3 and 4, you can see #3 is just a little under exposed, but the action is still well captured and it's not blurry, so that is a pretty good indicator that you have a good shutter speed.. But then you went even faster in #4, and you can see it is much more under exposed than #3. Canon cameras maintain excellent image quality even at higher ISOs, so don't be afraid to use it to your advantage when taking action shots. Of course you should use the lowest ISO possible for best image quality, but when you're doing hand held action shots having good exposure, depth of field, and using the right shutter speed is more important , IMO of course.

Understood, i never looked at it that way with ISO speeds.. I looked at it as an indication of light i guess you could say.. the darker the scene the higher the ISO speed should be. Am i wrong? Ill take any criticism because im the biggest noob you'll meet :lol:

[jdk]

Understood, i never looked at it that way with ISO speeds.. I looked at it as an indication of light i guess you could say.. the darker the scene the higher the ISO speed should be. Am i wrong? Ill take any criticism because im the biggest noob you'll meet :lol:

That is a pretty good way to look at it, but it also depends on what aperture you want to use, what shutter speed, etc. You could be standing in the middle of the brightest day shooting a pure white object and still have to bump the ISO up because you wanted to use a very small aperture (high fstop, like F/22) and a very high shutter speed. So in this situtation if you leave the ISO setting at 100, you might not be able to use the aperture or shutter speed you want in order to get the right exposure.

I look at ISO as "free" light because to a certain point it does not effect the way your image looks, however aperture and shutter can both drastically change how your image looks.