How To: Panning & Action Photography

Ford DNA · 11-08-2006, 03:24 PM

I'm having a hard time. Sometimes they come out good, other times, pictures are blurry. I'm using a Nikon D50 with AF lens and leaving it on the Auto setting. Does that action/motion setting really work? I haven't had much chance to play around with it at the track. Is it a problem with the camera setting, or do I need to try a different lens? Is shutter speed the only thing involved? I try to focus on the object, then follow it, and snap a shot.

**marksaccord95** · 11-08-2006, 03:50 PM

im typing up a how to, give me a few

XtremeSaturn · 11-08-2006, 04:15 PM

Don't use the camera presets to get a shot you want to get. I'll hold off on the reply until mark finishes up his reply if he hadn't posted it already.

1/60 - 1/125 is key

BTW, here is a link they helped me when I first started out. The AF speed on your camera and AI-Servo helps out a GREAT deal when it comes to panning (the kind of shot where the background is blurred and the car is still in focus)
http://www.iphotoforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5322

**marksaccord95** · 11-08-2006, 04:19 PM

i dont know nikons, do they have any sort of image stabilization?

i think that in photography, shooting action shots is one of my good traits, so im going to do a little article for all who cares.

When I shoot action, i just run the camera in shutter priority (TV on canons) and let the camera figure out the lighting in MOST situations, and sometimes ill fine tune it with AE shifting. Some situations I run full manual, generally in odd lighting conditions. Make sure you run AI servo and not single shot when shooting action, this allows the camera to continually focus after each picture when shooting bursts- Thats what its there for, shooting action, so use it

The key really is a good lens with a good image stabilization system, this allows you to run a much lower shutter speed. Dont be fooled by some Canon lenses such as the 70-300. It has a single stage stabilizer that only stabilizes vertical movement. Make sure you get a 2 stage (only found in L glass) stabilizer that controls vertical and horizontal movement. There really isnt a formula to shooting action. Ive heard people say a 1MPH: 1MS shutter speed is good, but i dont quite agree with that, I would START with 1.5-2x and then go down from there.

the main points of shooting action are:
1) angle at which the object is traveling, I.E. coming at you, front 1/4 shot, side, rear 1/4, etc.
2) speed of whatever your shooting
3) your distance from where you are shooting
4) focal length (which can tie into 3)
5) lighting sometimes, if you have a good F lens, u dont have to worry about this so much
6) objects in the background

here are some examples.

covering 1
Dont bother at trying to run a slow shutter on something coming straight at you. Whatever you might be shooting needs to be coming across you at some point to start getting a sense of motion. If im at a race in a photo hole shooting straight shots, I generally jack up the shutter pretty good, (1/250th) esp. if you cannot see much of the wheel rotation

at that point you start getting the 1/4 shot, then shutter speed starts to become a factor

covers steps 2-4
When Im shooting with my telephoto at focal lock (or close to) at a good distance, your body movement isnt as fast, this allows you to run a slower shutter. keep in mind i have a 2.8L IS which is about the best lens for stabilization, allowing me to run really slow shutters. for non IS lenses, I would start at 1.3-1.5x the speed of whatever your shooting and then move down from there, not going below 50-60th.

formula D Irwindale: car traveling about 40-50 mph, at focal lock, probably 30 yards away, shutter speed 1/40th

shooting about 5-10 mph faster, but much shorter distance, moved up to 1/60th

The key is finding that sweet spot. Sometimes you can shoot REALLY slow, but can end up with a little more blur, in which basically your focus point is in focus, but the surrounding areas start to blur. Plus some drivers are faster then others. The shots look awesome, but when it comes to selling them, can be a little harder.
example:

DISTANCE
Generally, shorter the distance, shorter the focal, the less speed you can run. If your whipping your camera around fast, its going to be harder for you to hold that camera as still, allowing less shutter.

burn out, probably about 17-20mm in this shot, in the burn out box only traveling maybe 5-10mph, shutter was around 60th. As you can see, this is the same speed I was shooting cars traveling 50-60mph, but since it is MUCH closer, this really cuts your ability to run a slow shutter, 80th would have probably been prime in this shot

whats in the background
This doesnt really come into play so much, but for example, when you have a backdrop that doesnt look different as you move, as in, shooting into the inside of an oval, you dont have to shoot so slow because the background all looks the same anyway.

shooting direct side shots are the most rewarding and dont require really slow shutters, this was shot at 100th.

1/80th - 150mph

1/60th - 100mph

**marksaccord95** · 11-08-2006, 04:22 PM

maybe one of these track days ill host a 'how to" on shooting action shots. a lot can be learned from drag strip shooting.

Ford DNA · 11-08-2006, 06:10 PM

Thanks so much, Mark. (assuming that's your name!)

I'm going to print this out and get my manual out and get this figured out. Well, try to. LOL

This is why I tried to find a basic DSLR photography class, but everything was either too advanced, too basic, or nobody signed up, so unavailable. =(

Ford DNA · 11-08-2006, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XtremeSaturn

Don't use the camera presets to get a shot you want to get. I'll hold off on the reply until mark finishes up his reply if he hadn't posted it already.

1/60 - 1/125 is key

BTW, here is a link they helped me when I first started out. The AF speed on your camera and AI-Servo helps out a GREAT deal when it comes to panning (the kind of shot where the background is blurred and the car is still in focus)
http://www.iphotoforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5322

Thanks! I'm printing out that link.

**marksaccord95** · 11-08-2006, 06:20 PM

next track day, if im in town, we can do a action photography class if people are interested.

its def. something youd have to do hands on to understand.

Ford DNA · 11-08-2006, 09:34 PM

I don't go to track days, but I will be at the Snowbirds. I wish I would have run into you at Orlando. I want to thank you again for the help. A lot of photographers won't offer to help rookies. It's like..I'm a person, too, dammit.

**marksaccord95** · 11-08-2006, 10:41 PM

ill be filming all weekend at snowbirds, if you get credentials, come see me.

**marksaccord95** · 11-17-2006, 01:35 AM

sticky this

Rob.M · 11-20-2006, 12:46 AM

Stickied

**japanbran** · 11-22-2007, 03:03 PM

im down for a action photography class next track day

Cobb_Web · 12-03-2007, 12:44 PM

I see that Rob M uses nikon. I have a nikon D40, just got it, and when i shoot action shots they come out pretty blurry. I was just fooling around, experimenting with the sports pre set. What do you recomend I do?

**marksaccord95** · 12-04-2007, 03:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by japanbran

im down for a action photography class next track day

i dont live in fl anymore lol

**marksaccord95** · 12-04-2007, 03:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobb_Web

I see that Rob M uses nikon. I have a nikon D40, just got it, and when i shoot action shots they come out pretty blurry. I was just fooling around, experimenting with the sports pre set. What do you recomend I do?

run more shutter speed. smaller the object the more you will need

Michael. · 12-04-2007, 09:02 AM

Shutter priority will become your best friend. i have a d50 as well. basically if you want more background blur put the shutter speed down to about 1/60th as they said. and just play around with it from there. iso 200 for bright light, and go higher if its darker. its really quite simple on the camera, the rest is up to you practicing the timing of you moving your body and timing the speed and so forth...

Cobb_Web · 12-04-2007, 09:43 AM

Yea, Ive got some practice to do. I put the shutter speed all the way up I think yesterday, and then I coulnt figure out why all the shots were coming out black. I finally got it figured out. I was practicing in my house, so i had horrible lighting, so I'm sure if im outdoors taking some shots it'll work.

**marksaccord95** · 12-05-2007, 01:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by civickid04

Shutter priority will become your best friend. i have a d50 as well. basically if you want more background blur put the shutter speed down to about 1/60th as they said. and just play around with it from there. iso 200 for bright light, and go higher if its darker. its really quite simple on the camera, the rest is up to you practicing the timing of you moving your body and timing the speed and so forth...

if your camera has 100iso, start there.

also dont start at 1/60th, start at like 1/160th- 1/200th and then move down

**marksaccord95** · 12-20-2007, 01:28 AM

updated with better examples and slight revisions to text

11-08-2006, 03:24 PM	#1 (permalink)
Ford DNA As Seen On TV!	How To: Panning & Action Photography I'm having a hard time. Sometimes they come out good, other times, pictures are blurry. I'm using a Nikon D50 with AF lens and leaving it on the Auto setting. Does that action/motion setting really work? I haven't had much chance to play around with it at the track. Is it a problem with the camera setting, or do I need to try a different lens? Is shutter speed the only thing involved? I try to focus on the object, then follow it, and snap a shot. Last edited by Ford DNA : 11-08-2006 at 03:24 PM. Reason: typo

11-08-2006, 04:19 PM	#4 (permalink)
marksaccord95 TR Registered Member #5	i dont know nikons, do they have any sort of image stabilization? i think that in photography, shooting action shots is one of my good traits, so im going to do a little article for all who cares. When I shoot action, i just run the camera in shutter priority (TV on canons) and let the camera figure out the lighting in MOST situations, and sometimes ill fine tune it with AE shifting. Some situations I run full manual, generally in odd lighting conditions. Make sure you run AI servo and not single shot when shooting action, this allows the camera to continually focus after each picture when shooting bursts- Thats what its there for, shooting action, so use it The key really is a good lens with a good image stabilization system, this allows you to run a much lower shutter speed. Dont be fooled by some Canon lenses such as the 70-300. It has a single stage stabilizer that only stabilizes vertical movement. Make sure you get a 2 stage (only found in L glass) stabilizer that controls vertical and horizontal movement. There really isnt a formula to shooting action. Ive heard people say a 1MPH: 1MS shutter speed is good, but i dont quite agree with that, I would START with 1.5-2x and then go down from there. the main points of shooting action are: 1) angle at which the object is traveling, I.E. coming at you, front 1/4 shot, side, rear 1/4, etc. 2) speed of whatever your shooting 3) your distance from where you are shooting 4) focal length (which can tie into 3) 5) lighting sometimes, if you have a good F lens, u dont have to worry about this so much 6) objects in the background here are some examples. covering 1 Dont bother at trying to run a slow shutter on something coming straight at you. Whatever you might be shooting needs to be coming across you at some point to start getting a sense of motion. If im at a race in a photo hole shooting straight shots, I generally jack up the shutter pretty good, (1/250th) esp. if you cannot see much of the wheel rotation at that point you start getting the 1/4 shot, then shutter speed starts to become a factor covers steps 2-4 When Im shooting with my telephoto at focal lock (or close to) at a good distance, your body movement isnt as fast, this allows you to run a slower shutter. keep in mind i have a 2.8L IS which is about the best lens for stabilization, allowing me to run really slow shutters. for non IS lenses, I would start at 1.3-1.5x the speed of whatever your shooting and then move down from there, not going below 50-60th. formula D Irwindale: car traveling about 40-50 mph, at focal lock, probably 30 yards away, shutter speed 1/40th shooting about 5-10 mph faster, but much shorter distance, moved up to 1/60th The key is finding that sweet spot. Sometimes you can shoot REALLY slow, but can end up with a little more blur, in which basically your focus point is in focus, but the surrounding areas start to blur. Plus some drivers are faster then others. The shots look awesome, but when it comes to selling them, can be a little harder. example: DISTANCE Generally, shorter the distance, shorter the focal, the less speed you can run. If your whipping your camera around fast, its going to be harder for you to hold that camera as still, allowing less shutter. burn out, probably about 17-20mm in this shot, in the burn out box only traveling maybe 5-10mph, shutter was around 60th. As you can see, this is the same speed I was shooting cars traveling 50-60mph, but since it is MUCH closer, this really cuts your ability to run a slow shutter, 80th would have probably been prime in this shot whats in the background This doesnt really come into play so much, but for example, when you have a backdrop that doesnt look different as you move, as in, shooting into the inside of an oval, you dont have to shoot so slow because the background all looks the same anyway. shooting direct side shots are the most rewarding and dont require really slow shutters, this was shot at 100th. 1/80th - 150mph 1/60th - 100mph Last edited by marksaccord95 : 12-20-2007 at 01:27 AM.

11-08-2006, 03:50 PM	#2 (permalink)
marksaccord95 TR Registered Member #5	im typing up a how to, give me a few

11-08-2006, 04:15 PM	#3 (permalink)
XtremeSaturn Registered User	Don't use the camera presets to get a shot you want to get. I'll hold off on the reply until mark finishes up his reply if he hadn't posted it already. 1/60 - 1/125 is key BTW, here is a link they helped me when I first started out. The AF speed on your camera and AI-Servo helps out a GREAT deal when it comes to panning (the kind of shot where the background is blurred and the car is still in focus) http://www.iphotoforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5322

11-08-2006, 04:22 PM	#5 (permalink)
marksaccord95 TR Registered Member #5	maybe one of these track days ill host a 'how to" on shooting action shots. a lot can be learned from drag strip shooting.

11-08-2006, 06:10 PM	#6 (permalink)
Ford DNA As Seen On TV!	Thanks so much, Mark. (assuming that's your name!) I'm going to print this out and get my manual out and get this figured out. Well, try to. LOL This is why I tried to find a basic DSLR photography class, but everything was either too advanced, too basic, or nobody signed up, so unavailable. =(

11-08-2006, 06:20 PM	#8 (permalink)
marksaccord95 TR Registered Member #5	next track day, if im in town, we can do a action photography class if people are interested. its def. something youd have to do hands on to understand.

11-08-2006, 09:34 PM	#9 (permalink)
Ford DNA As Seen On TV!	I don't go to track days, but I will be at the Snowbirds. I wish I would have run into you at Orlando. I want to thank you again for the help. A lot of photographers won't offer to help rookies. It's like..I'm a person, too, dammit.

11-08-2006, 10:41 PM	#10 (permalink)
marksaccord95 TR Registered Member #5	ill be filming all weekend at snowbirds, if you get credentials, come see me.

11-17-2006, 01:35 AM	#11 (permalink)
marksaccord95 TR Registered Member #5	sticky this

11-20-2006, 12:46 AM	#12 (permalink)
Rob.M Down Shift Magazine	Stickied

11-22-2007, 03:03 PM	#13 (permalink)
japanbran Bo0st FTMFW	im down for a action photography class next track day

12-03-2007, 12:44 PM	#14 (permalink)
Cobb_Web Registered User	I see that Rob M uses nikon. I have a nikon D40, just got it, and when i shoot action shots they come out pretty blurry. I was just fooling around, experimenting with the sports pre set. What do you recomend I do?

12-04-2007, 09:02 AM	#17 (permalink)
Michael. I'm a Photographer!	Shutter priority will become your best friend. i have a d50 as well. basically if you want more background blur put the shutter speed down to about 1/60th as they said. and just play around with it from there. iso 200 for bright light, and go higher if its darker. its really quite simple on the camera, the rest is up to you practicing the timing of you moving your body and timing the speed and so forth...

12-04-2007, 09:43 AM	#18 (permalink)
Cobb_Web Registered User	Yea, Ive got some practice to do. I put the shutter speed all the way up I think yesterday, and then I coulnt figure out why all the shots were coming out black. I finally got it figured out. I was practicing in my house, so i had horrible lighting, so I'm sure if im outdoors taking some shots it'll work.

12-20-2007, 01:28 AM	#20 (permalink)
marksaccord95 TR Registered Member #5	updated with better examples and slight revisions to text